Not exactly what you expect to hear booming at you from
across the river in the early-morning stillness of Oregon 's
wine country. From my fishing boat, I recognized Mickey. He lives right there
on the river and works the vineyards that stretch back from its steep, wooded
banks.
While fishing last fall, I had chatted frequently with
Mickey, who keeps his beat-up metal rowboat upside-down on the river bank at
the base of the 30-foot embankment below his simple camper. Mickey had watched
me catch lots of coho salmon throughout the season while he caught few. I was
happy to share my secret with him -- orange Kwikfish, size 11. Apparently, this
year Mickey was stocked up with the numinous plugs and ready. Ready to kick my
ass.
Yeah, we'll see about
that, is what I thought. What I shouted back, changing the subject, was,
"How'd you keep your boat safe in last week's rains?" Mickey related
his challenges of dragging his clunky boat halfway up the hillside, out of
reach of the extra ten feet of river that the storms had brought. Water levels
were just getting back to normal.
The river is an odd culture of professional fishing guides
and their clients, local good-ole-boys, now and then a TV fishing show
guy (see Hawg Man), and ever-hopeful
newcomers -- all of them addicted to one degree or another to catching big
fish. Plus, there's Mickey.
Sound carries over water so you hear things. From mid-river,
I eavesdropped on Mickey and his two friends from Hawaii
who had been salmon fishing with him that morning. His visitors seemed in a
hurry to leave and hadn't caught any fish, though Mickey had caught five. One
was a 25-pound hawg chinook, bigger than anything I'd ever caught out there, so
who knows? Maybe Mickey really is gonna kick my ass this year.
Despite his friends' poor fishing luck, the river was filled
with migrating coho salmon, freshly arrived from the ocean and silver as
brand-new quarters. Hooking one of those magnificent fish, full of energy for its
suicidal spawning journey, is like snagging a dervish on acid. There's nothing
like a giant, unseen fish, hooked and pissed, peeling line as your reel's
braking-drag screams beautiful music. It's a connection to a primal piece of the
Earth.
A fish you don't even hook, however, can be almost as
exciting -- the ones that do a fish drive-by. At the end of a long cast as the
fluorescent lure glows slowly into view from the gray-green depths, and just as
you're about to pull it from the water, a silver torpedo materializes, tracking
the wobbling Kwikfish. First, the predatory face appears, then its great body,
and in an instant the salmon harmlessly bumps the top of your lure with its
nose and vanishes. Gone. Like that fish was just fucking with you.
A few days later, I noticed someone else had taken out
Mickey's rowboat to fish, and eventually our watery paths crossed. I met Josh,
a friend of Mickey's. Josh sounded possessive towards the river, as in,
"We keep an eye on fish caught in our river."
He and I engaged in the ritualistic sharing of fishing
success or not. I had caught seven salmon the day before. "That's a good
day on this river," Josh confirmed. "That's a good day," I
concurred.
Josh looked sideways at me, "Wait a minute. I think
Mickey has told me about you. Orange Kwikfish, right?" His tone became
pleasantly deferential after that.
Josh was fishing with this garish purple plug. "Guys
yesterday said it was the hot color. I don't get it," he confessed. After
our conversation, he switched to an orange Kwikfish.
I'd like to say that Josh immediately caught a giant salmon
on my recommended lure, but that didn't happen. Myself, I managed to catch a
few fish over the course of the morning, but it was slow.
From a distance, I watched Josh hopelessly snagged on the
rocky bottom, then finally, give up and snap his line. Something told me that
he had just lost his only orange Kwikfish, and as I fished past him, he complained
that was so.
"I've got one that's all chipped up and you can have it
if you want," I said. "I don't think the chips really matter to the
fish."He pounced on my offer. I dug out the battered Kwikfish, motored close, and tossed him the lure, noticing that I had upgraded its set of treble hooks. "It's got super-duper hooks on it, too," I said, matter-of-factly. "I'm sure it's caught lots of fish."
Later, as I motored toward the boat ramp to leave, I again
crossed paths with Josh, now a half-mile downriver from Mickey's place. "I
just missed one," he beamed.
As he reeled in his line, I saw my old orange Kwikfish with
its distinctive chips. "And on the magic lure," I said. "But now
you've got a long row back upstream."
Josh seemed bemused and grinned broadly: "I would love
to just row all day long."
Josh thanked me again for giving him the lure. But why not?
After all, the only way I learned how to catch those sometimes-finicky coho
salmon was because this old guy in a beat-up blue fishing boat loved to talk
and pointed me in the right direction some years back (see I Saved Bambi). Ken Moore was his name. "Just remember
Sears," he explained the first time he introduced himself.
It appeared to me that Ken Moore's very favorite thing in
life was to anchor his blue boat in the middle of one of those invisible travel
lanes used by migrating salmon, toss his line downstream behind his boat, and
sit there all day long, days at a time, his hours broken rarely by a big fish,
but frequently by conversation with anyone within earshot in another boat, or
with fishing friends via cell phone, and all in the top-of-your-lungs voice
that sometimes accompanies old men. Eh?
What's that you say?
I haven't seen Ken Moore for the past few fishing seasons,
and I fear his many health issues may have overcome his passion for fishing. I
often remind myself of the ancient piscatorial scripture: "The gods do not
deduct from man's allotted span the hours spent in fishing." Maybe Ken Moore had
already passed his allotted span, but for his fishing.
Not surprisingly, most guys fishing on weekdays, which is
the only time I go out, are old retired guys. Like me. Unlike me, however, they
bring to the river lots of health complaints and a need to share with anyone
who will listen.
Waiting in the barely daylight in the parking lot to launch
my boat, Jerry, one of the local guides told me about his recent bout with gall
stones and pancreatitis. "Almost killed me," he explained in some
detail.
It's not as if we were complete strangers or anything. I
had, after all, talked to him a couple of times on the river two days earlier.
I guess after you've swapped fishing yarns, anything goes.
Catching a big salmon, especially if it happens to be an
infrequent experience, can turn normally taciturn, burly old men into gushing,
chattering teenage girls. For minutes afterwards, they relive their adrenaline-fueled,
big-fish experience, which often included stumbling over each other and
shouted, contradictory instructions as the fish screeches off and the reel
sizzles, then a string of profane superlatives -- "that's one big-ass
son-of-a-bitch" -- after the leviathan is sighted emerging from the deep,
followed by clumsy stabs to net the mad fish. Then, a racket of clattering
and chaos as the captured salmon flops and flounces about the metal boat.
Finally, a distinctive thunk...thunk
as a billyclub "priest" delivers the fish's last rites, followed by
unpriestly high-fives.
I was fishing near a quite-small boat packed with a
middle-aged man and his quite-large father wedged into the transom seat, facing
the back of the boat. The son hooked a big chinook salmon on an underpowered
fishing rod and fought the fish for many minutes. "That's one of them 30,
40-pounders," father prognosticated. Son readily agreed.
Anticipating son's victory over fish, father twisted his
corpulence to reach their landing net, and his foot kicked open the boat's
drain plug. Water poured in.
One might think: so stick the plug back in. Right? It's not
that simple if you can't even see, let alone reach your own feet. As son's
fish-battle waged, fat father struggled to reach and replace the boat plug. He
motored to the river's edge, which was really no help since it was a rock wall
abutting 20-feet-deep water.
Somehow, however, father managed to stop the flood before
too much water got in, and they successfully netted the salmon and brought it
aboard, thrashing and crashing about.
Thunk...thunk.
"What do you figure it weighs?" I asked from my
nearby boat.
Son studied his deceased fish carefully. "Thirty-five,
I figure."
He pulled a scales from his tackle box and hoisted the
three-foot-long fish. He screwed up his face. "It's giving an error at 20
pounds," he mused.
I offered to let him use my digital scales, which measures
up to 50 pounds. I brought my boat close, and he took my scales and held up his
prize -- a late-season, fairly dark chinook salmon. A big fish, no doubt, but
not one of the river's mythical hawgs.
He read the new weight: almost exactly 20 pounds. Pssssft! You could feel his deflation.
"What had you guessed?" he asked me.
"Oh, I was guessing about 25," I lied.
A week later, I ran into the father-son team at the boat
ramp. Son had positioned their rag-tag, baby-blue boat next to shore just-so,
and father struggled mightily to lift his right leg over the gunwale to get in.
Son steadied him, actually helping father hoist his immense calf. I noticed for
the first time that father's transom seat was tricked out like a fishing
throne, with thick, beige cushioning on the seat and a matching tall, padded
back.
We swapped recent fishing lore and lies and as they pushed
away, I added, "Don't sink your boat this time."
Not even a smile.
Fisherman ineptitude is one of the ways that fish escape.
Attention drifts. Fishing lines get nicked; hooks get dulled on rocks. Landing
nets get tangled. In other words, big fish often get away. In fact, once a
salmon takes the bait, I'd say it's got about a one-in-three chance of getting
away. It's not easy getting everything right.
You have to remember the context: you may have been out
there fishing for hours, even days, without catching anything. Then out of the
blue -- wham! -- a fish comes out of
nowhere and smacks the bait.
One morning, Josh told me about just such an experience, and
I replied that it happens to everyone. I added, "You get
lackadaisical."
As our boats drifted our ways, I pondered what the fuck kind
of word that was to use. I wondered if "lackadaisical" had ever been
uttered before on this river in all of human history. I watched a mink with a
snake in its mouth run along the riverbank.
At that point, including my prior fishing trip two days
earlier which had been a complete bust, I had been casting for six hours
without a fish. That's when -- wham! Right at the boat in plain sight a
coho hit my orange Kwikfish. Of course it got away. I got lackadaisical.
Just below that stretch of coho water lies calm, deep river
that holds both chinook and coho until late in the fall. It’s easy fishing so
gets a fair amount of pressure from guys slowly trolling plugs. They also drift
gobs of fish eggs under bobbers. That’s what I watched a guide with his
bumbling clients doing, and one of them caught a nasty, dark chinook, and they
all found it grand.
What the hell. Can't argue with success. I abandoned my
orange Kwikfish for eggs. Damned if I didn’t soon catch my first fish of the
day, a lovely coho salmon. As I bent to release it -- you can't keep any wild
(non-hatchery raised) coho there -- I was shocked to see that it had no adipose
fin on its back. That marked it as a rare, fin-clipped, hatchery-raised fish,
suitable for harvest. And eating.
"Son of a bitch," I exclaimed loudly.
Thunk...thunk.
Hours later, there I was, still drifting eggs at 2:00 in the
warming afternoon, down to my last two stinky, gooey gobs of fish eggs, and
ready to call it a day. I had caught no more salmon. From what I could tell,
everyone else had given up and gone home.I use my sonar fish-finder to know the depth of water I'm fishing, but pay little attention to actual fish blips on the screen. This time, however, as I drifted in 24 feet of water, I saw unmistakable images of three large fish right on the bottom below me. I flipped my next-to-the-last gob of eggs upstream and let it sink back to where I guessed those ghosts lay. Sure enough, one sucked it in, and I had a fabulous time in the autumn sunshine, all alone on the river, landing a beautiful 14-pound chinook hen.
Thunk...thunk.
Fishing over for the day, I headed upstream with my
two-salmon limit. There I found Josh futilely casting a brand-new green
Kwikfish, the hot color of the previous day, he explained to me. I asked if he
would do me a favor and use my iPhone to take my picture, and he readily
agreed.
For long moments, I basked in the contentment that comes
from being in exactly the right place at exactly the right time, and doing
exactly the right thing.
* * *
"Yeah, I know. I'm using it right now," Mickey
said, pausing on his beat-up wooden oars and holding up his fishing rod. Sure
enough. Hanging on the end of his line was my old, chipped-up lure. "In
the last couple of days I've caught five chinook on it."
Has Mickey kicked my ass this year, like he threatened
early-on? I guess that depends a lot on how each of us measures our success on
the river. Besides, this year still has a few weeks of fishing left in it.
Anything could happen.