It’s about my friend, Adam, a Colorado River boatman. I met him guiding our raft through the Grand Canyon a few years back. We bonded, despite the fact that I am a tad bit older (27 years, in fact). Last June, I worked as his crew (called a swamper) on a similar raft trip (see Swamping the Grand Canyon).
Today, I drove in to the riverwalk in Eugene, where one of those cosmic things happened to me. It was a lovely day of March sunshine for my walk, but I wasn’t feeling it. My funk had to do with having just left a maddening encounter with our cell phone company.
So I was a bit mopey. Sitting in my car in the parking lot, I discovered a chocolate Tootsie Pop buried in the console. A common trail treat for rafters while hiking in the Grand Canyon, this was the last holdout from a handful I’d absconded with, after my swamper adventure with Adam eight months ago. I stuffed the sucker in my jacket, figuring I could take a selfie with it, somewhere along the river, and send it to him.
I found a nice overlook with snow-blanketed mountains in the background. I waited for breaks, as other walkers passed, since I always feel stupid taking a selfie with people watching. Especially when I’m alone and holding up a chocolate Tootsie Pop while grinning in the sunshine. But I got my shot and stuck it in an email to Adam, typing the subject, “Look what I found.” As my finger rested over the Send button, the phone dinged with an arriving email.
A few days back, I had sent Adam an email, asking a question about our upcoming trip, but hadn’t heard back. The instant my phone dinged, I said to myself, “It’s from Adam.” I cancelled the email I was about to send him and opened my inbox. Sure enough. There it was, Adam’s reply to my question from a few days earlier.
I replied and sent him my selfie with the chocolate Tootsie Pop, but spared him these details about the timing, since it had left me scratching my head with questions. Like, WTF?
A coincidence? Here’s what makes me wonder: Once before, almost the same thing happened at exactly the same spot.
It was a year ago from last December. I had arrived at that same riverwalk parking lot in Eugene. The endless winter rains had let up for my walk, but I wasn’t feeling it that day, either. I sat in my car, staring at the gray river and landscape. My phone dinged. It was a text from Adam, which surprised me since he’s not a fan of texting. The message asked, “Where were you 6 months ago?”
His accompanying picture answered his question. There I was, six months ago to the day; communing with Nature in the Grand Canyon; high (yes) above the Colorado River; ankle-deep in crystal-clear, ice-cold water; sun in my face; mesmerized by a waterfall in Deer Creek Canyon. It’s a scary hike along cliffs to reach an Eden of gurgling water, cooling shade, and Native American petroglyphs. Alone and just upstream from that desert oasis, I found this small waterfall, bordered by deep-green plants with blood-red roots dangling in the current. Dragonflies, golden as if touched by Midas, buzzed about in the mist. I traced their flights with an outstretched finger, trying to entice one to land.
The thought crossed my mind at
the time that I must look like a deranged orchestra conductor, waving an
invisible baton to the music of my private symphony. Which I guess I was. But thankfully,
for a few precious minutes I’d been able to have this transcendent experience alone,
out of sight of the other rafters. Or so I thought. Apparently, Adam had
climbed overlooking rocks to memorialize my transcendent moment.
I need to tell you one other
thing about my connection to Deer Creek. Since my first hike up its slot canyon,
several years and rafting trips ago (see The Death
March), I’ve associated this special
place with a particular song – “Arizona,” by Benjie Howard. Like Adam, he’s a
Grand Canyon river guide. He sings of the visage of the world of a Native
American elder, “not the last freedom
fighter, not the last of the resisters.” I’ve listened to his song on headphones
while hiking up the cliffs to Deer Creek: “Whose
country is this, anyway, now?” (You
can watch a video here of Benjie
playing his song, deep in another Grand Canyon side canyon.)
Back in Eugene on the
riverwalk that day, I stared at Adam’s picture of me at Deer Creek for long
minutes. When I got out of the car for my walk, thinking about that blissful
moment a half-year ago, my spirits lifted. For my headphone-walking music, I picked
my Grand Canyon Playlist – sixty or
so songs I’d listened to while rafting through the Grand Canyon.
I hit “shuffle” and stepped
onto the sidewalk. The first random tune started – guitar strings. It was Benjie
Howard’s “Arizona.” My Deer Creek song.
“Oh, Arizona, de Maria, queen of hidden
little springs;
from the Catalina Range up to Sedona;
yeah, Nankoweap, you make my heart sing.”
yeah, Nankoweap, you make my heart sing.”
Again, like, WTF? More coincidence?
Do these kind of things happen to everyone? Do people sometimes really have unexplainable cosmic connections?
"Here, hold my beer." |
Swamper & Boatman Grand Canyon - June 2018 |
I’m a skeptic. I don’t believe
in the paranormal. Or visiting aliens, or the Deep State, or Bigfoot, or God. Still,
coincidences can feel spooky. And besides, I know that we don’t know what we
don’t know. Such a paradox!
I also know that there is no
better place to contemplate such cosmic braintwisters than inside the Grand Canyon. Eva and I will be
back there on another eight-day raft trip with Adam this summer. If we find any
answers, I’ll let you know.
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